Ten tented suites are strung along elevated timber walkways through jackalberry, sausage and knobthorn trees. Canvas walls unzip and roll back on three sides, opening the bedroom to the canopy, and each suite has a lounge, a freestanding bath set for the view, and a private deck above the floodplain. Hippos grunt from the lagoons after dark. Branches crack and feet shuffle in the sand under the walkways at night. Coffee arrives on the deck at first light, brought up by a guide with homemade biscuits.
The main area sits under thatch and canvas, with a lounge, a bar and an open boma. Its library holds old books, regional maps and military relics turned up on site during construction, a reminder that this part of the Zambezi Region was once a military zone. Dinner is served open to the sky on the central deck, with the floodplain visible through the meal and hippo noise carrying up from the water. Mornings can start away from camp altogether, with breakfast set out in the bush.
Branches crack and feet shuffle in the sand under the walkways at night.
The Sijwa Project, launched in 2018 with the blessing of Chief Mayuni, is a short drive from camp. Glass, plastic and metal from the lodge and the nearby villages are reworked there into jewellery, homeware and craft by local artisans. Kitchen waste and elephant dung feed a permaculture nursery growing vegetables for the village and the lodge kitchen, and beehives go up around village crops to keep elephants out of them. A share of the revenue goes to the Mayuni Conservancy each month, and guests can plant indigenous trees, tended afterwards by local tree guardians.
A sand track of roughly 14 kilometres runs from the Bwabwata entrance gate to the lodge, with Katima Mulilo around 90 minutes away. What that buys is a water-and-land safari within Namibia, lagoons and channels on one side, dry woodland and floodplain grazing on the other. Children are welcome, and younger guests have a junior ranger course to work through; families travelling with children under twelve take a private vehicle and boat on activities. This is a malaria area, and prophylaxis is essential.