Game drives run twice a day in open 4x4s, and inside Chobe National Park they run to the park’s rules: daylight hours only, designated tracks, no off-road driving. The neighbouring Kasane Forest Reserve lifts two of those constraints. Night drives operate there, and guided walks go out on foot with armed rangers, subject to guide availability and how high the grass has grown since the rains. For anyone who would rather be out of the vehicle than in it, that difference is the one that counts. Fishing is catch-and-release, tigerfish and bream, and seasonal.
The water side runs on a custom double-decker boat with 360-degree swivel seats, built for photographers who need a stable base while a herd swims the channel. It seats up to eighteen, with a bar on the lower deck and breakfast or lunch served on the water, and sundowner cruises go out most evenings. Buffalo file across toward Sedudu Island. Hippos surface in the shallows and crocodiles hold the sandbars until the light goes. Lunch can also be taken back at the lodge, high above the floodplain.
Hippos surface in the shallows and crocodiles hold the sandbars until the light goes.
Three of the cottages open into an adjoining twin room, which suits families with small children. Child-minding is available, there are children’s menus, and the activity programme runs to nature walks, crafts and croquet on the lawn. Children under five stay off shared game drives, though a private vehicle solves that. At the far end of the grounds, one secluded cottage keeps its own plunge pool, and comes with a private vehicle and guide for every activity.
Kasane International Airport is a short drive away, which removes the light-aircraft hop that most Botswana lodges require, and Victoria Falls lies close enough for a day trip across the border. All of which makes this a natural first or last stop on a Botswana itinerary, before the Delta or after it. The riverfront is a different ecosystem from the Delta’s floodplains, and the two read well together. The view does the rest: shimmering channels, white salt flats and green islands running out to the blue-grey line of Namibia.