In 2004 the communities around Kinigi came together as the Sabyinyo Community Livelihood Association, SACOLA, working with the International Gorilla Conservation Programme. The lodge followed, and it has belonged to the trust ever since. That made Sabyinyo the first community-owned lodge in Rwanda. An operator runs it day to day on the trust’s behalf.
After running costs, the surplus goes to the parishes that border the gorillas’ forest. Over the years it has built classrooms, and paid for safe homes and clean drinking water for genocide survivors and vulnerable families. In the villages it has set up water points and community vegetable gardens, and some of that work is visible on a guided walk through them. Guests can add to it, planting indigenous saplings alongside the lodge’s reforestation team, part of the lodge’s long-running effort to bring back native trees.
After running costs, the surplus goes to the parishes that border the gorillas’ forest
Steep steps link the car park, main house and cottages, worth noting for anyone with limited mobility. In the main house, the lounge and dining room are both warmed by fireplaces, and there is also a library, a curio shop and a room on the trust’s community work. Meals are full board, by the fire or out on the decks in fine weather, and the cooking is Rwandan with a cosmopolitan touch, drawn from the day’s garden harvest. House wine and local drinks are included, and at dusk they come out onto the terrace as the sun drops behind the volcanoes.
The journey from Kigali takes around two and a half to three hours by road, and there is a helicopter option for those who would sooner fly. Gorillas are the reason most guests come, but the park repays a longer stay. Golden monkey treks head into the bamboo, and day hikes climb Mount Bisoke to its crater lake. Another day hike follows the trail to Dian Fossey’s grave at the Karisoke site. Mount Karisimbi takes two days. Every trek is on foot and leaves from Kinigi, on permits issued by the Rwanda Development Board.