Virunga Lodge occupies one of the finest positions in Rwanda, set high on a ridge with the Virunga volcanoes and the Musanze valley to the west and Lakes Bulera and Ruhondo to the east. Six of the eight volcanoes in the chain are visible from the property on a clear day. The terraced gardens, now well established, run down the slope to a sunken garden, and a volcanic-stone spa and sauna sit among them.
The ten guest bandas are built by hand from wood and stone, each with a private terrace facing either the volcanoes or the lakes. They are simple and warm rather than showy, with open living rooms, fireplaces and en-suite bathrooms, and they are spaced along the ridge to keep the views and the quiet. Hospitality runs to a private butler and food drawn from local ingredients.
The position alone would be reason enough to stay; the gorillas make it remarkable.
The lodge is a base for tracking the mountain gorillas of Volcanoes National Park, about an hour’s drive away, and for trekking the rare golden monkeys that live on the lower slopes. Guests also climb the volcanoes, walk the gentle trails around the lakes and visit the grave of the conservationist Dian Fossey, who studied the gorillas in these volcanoes for nearly two decades.
Volcanoes Safaris runs its community and conservation work through the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust, and Virunga Lodge supports projects in the neighbouring villages. These include a solar power partnership that has brought electricity to homes in the local community, water-tank support and livestock schemes, alongside the wider effort to protect the gorillas and their habitat.
Beyond the trekking, the wider area rewards a longer stay. The lakeshore villages, the birding within the lodge’s own gardens and the long evenings around an outdoor fire all draw on the same ridge-top setting, with the volcanoes on one horizon and the lakes on the other.