The villages on the edge of the Northern Tuli are home to Mashatu’s staff and guides, many of whom followed parents and grandparents into the same work. Guests can visit those villages. Out in the bush, the guides average 14 years on the reserve, and that knowledge shows most clearly on foot. Each night’s stay includes two guided outings a day, and one of them can be a walk in place of a drive. Walking, the attention narrows to tracks and dung, and to the plants an open vehicle passes without stopping.
Because Mashatu is a private reserve, the rules differ from those in Botswana’s national parks. Drives carry on after dinner with a spotlight, and the Night under the Stars sleep-out offers a night away from camp altogether. On the sleep-out, a tent set in a surprise spot sits under open sky, with hyenas calling across the dark. Cycling safaris follow routes the elephants have already worn into the ground. The number of vehicles at any sighting is kept low.
On the sleep-out, a tent set in a surprise spot sits under open sky, with hyenas calling across the dark.
The reserve and its surroundings hold archaeological sites, among them the Motloutse Ruins and Pitsani Koppie. San rock art survives in the rocky outcrops, and Solomon’s Wall, a natural basalt dyke, rises on either side of the Motloutse River. Guides can work these sites into the daily outings, so the same morning can cover a leopard’s overnight tracks and stonework left by much earlier residents of the valley. Photographers may prefer the Matebole hide, set below ground at a waterhole so the lens is at eye level with the water.
Limpopo Valley Airfield, inside the reserve, clears international arrivals on site, so flights from Lanseria in Johannesburg land directly in the Tuli Block, about an hour’s drive from camp. Arriving by road means crossing the Limpopo at Pont Drift, where vehicles ford the river when it runs low and a cable car takes over when it floods. Bathrooms are open to the sky, and the tents are cooled by fans, with no air-conditioning. Children must be 12 or older, a rule that suits a camp where hyenas call close to the canvas after dark.