The Selinda Spillway is an ancient watercourse running between the Okavango Delta and the Kwando-Linyanti systems, on a gradient so flat that water can push either way. For years it barely flowed. Rising water from May pulls in breeding herds of elephants, along with hippos and red lechwe. As the pools shrink from September, elephants dig wells in the sand of the dry riverbed. Lions, leopards and wild dogs work the same line of water, the dogs denning nearby in some years.
The camp is 1920s expedition rather than lodge, canvas pitched over timber decking, campaign chests and brass hurricane lamps, rugs and soft furnishings carried from Zanzibar, dark wood in the open-sided mess tent. A firepit is laid in front of it morning and evening, and solar panels handle the lighting. Meals move around the day: breakfast out in the bush during the morning activity, lunch back at camp at individual tables, dinner under the stars, sometimes among lanterns with bare feet in the sand.
As the pools shrink from September, elephants dig wells in the sand of the dry riverbed.
The reserve’s other explorer-style camp lies to the east, on the main channel of the Spillway, its tents pitched on the ground under riverine trees. This corner reads as Delta rather than Kwando-Linyanti: open floodplain, riverine forest of African ebony and leadwood, and the dry sandveld margins that produce the roan and sable. Motswiri airstrip is a short drive from camp, reached by light aircraft from Maun in about 35 minutes or from Kasane. There is no road access into this part of the reserve.
Twelve guests fill the camp, which makes exclusive use straightforward for a family or a group of friends. Children are welcome from six, though the walking suits older ones, and a Young Explorers programme covers tracking, plaster casts of prints and bow-making. Mornings start with a tray of tea and biscuits before light, then coffee at the firepit in front of the open-sided mess tent. There is no cellphone signal. Birders come for wattled crane and saddle-billed stork, and for the chance of a Pel’s fishing owl along the wooded channels.