Akagera is Rwanda’s only national park built around savannah, lakes and wetland instead of forest. It spreads across the east of the country, a few hours’ drive from Kigali, a mosaic of freshwater lakes, papyrus swamp, open plain and woodland. Lion and black rhino have both been brought back, and the park is once again home to the full set of large mammals. For anyone trekking gorillas or chimpanzees elsewhere in Rwanda, it is the natural counterpoint, dust and long horizons after the closeness of the forest.
The camp is roughly six kilometres inside the main gate, in the park’s southern sector, and the lake takes charge of the day. Boat safaris go out onto Ihema for hippo, crocodile and rafts of waterbirds. Morning and night drives work the surrounding plains and woodland for elephant, buffalo, zebra and antelope, and for the predators that follow them. Beyond the drives and the water there are guided walking safaris, fishing, and behind-the-scenes visits that show how a once-struggling reserve was rebuilt.
Boat safaris go out onto Ihema for hippo, crocodile and rafts of waterbirds.
The lake is alive with birds, part of a park list running to hundreds of recorded species, and the slow hours on the deck count for as much as the activities do. The tents themselves are simple and comfortable rather than lavish. Each is en suite, with a shaded veranda, camp chairs and an outlook of its own, and the nine share the lounge, bar and dining deck. Ruzizi suits travellers who want to be genuinely inside the wildlife, which is why staff walk guests between the tents and the main area after dark.
None of it stands apart from the park. The lodge is part of Akagera’s own tourism operation, so the people who greet guests at the gate are the people rebuilding the reserve behind it, and every night’s stay is money returned to the wildlife and to the communities on its borders. Solar power carries the whole camp, and the margin that would otherwise leave with an outside operator stays where it was earned. Few places make the line between a holiday and a park’s survival so short.