inspiration

tanzania: mobile camping with the migration

Private Safari
From $8,200 pp
2 guests
10 nights

trip highlights

  • Olakira relocates twice a year to sit inside the densest concentrations of the wildebeest migration, at the Ndutu calving plains or the Mara River crossings.
  • Every tent at Olakira has a mesh-walled section with roughly 270-degree views into which the king-sized bed can be rolled for a night under open sky.
  • The Rising Sun Dive Centre at Breezes, a PADI five-star Gold Palm operation, works sixteen dive sites with groups capped at six divers to a guide.
  • Breezes offers four dining venues on Bwejuu Beach, from the open-sided Salama dining room to a single table for two laid on the sand.
Scroll for the full itinerary
Safari tent accommodation at sunset in open grassland

Arusha, the Serengeti and Zanzibar

Ten nights link three parts of Tanzania in turn. It opens beneath Mount Meru at Arusha, the staging town at 1,400 metres where the northern circuit begins, on a wildlife estate with no large predators. It moves to the wildebeest migration, camping at Ndutu inside the Ngorongoro Conservation Area from December to March and in Serengeti National Park from June to October, then closes on Zanzibar’s southeast coast, where a barrier reef breaks about a kilometre off Bwejuu Beach.

You travel by road and by light aircraft between the regions. Days run from walking and horseback near Arusha to game drives in the Serengeti and reef diving, sailing and rock-pool walks on the coast. The three properties are chosen to suit each place: a nine-room lodge on the estate, a tented camp that shifts through the year, and a hand-built beach resort on the sand.

plan your safari

Daily Itinerary Breakdown

Arusha Beneath Mount Meru

You land at Kilimanjaro International and wake to Mount Meru before the parks begin. This first night is spent on the North Dolly wildlife estate, thirty-five minutes from the airport, where zebra and antelope graze up to the lawns and there are no large predators. Maasai trackers lead walks straight from the door, and horseback rides go out for two hours at a time, drawing close to grazing wildebeest. Mama Simba is a nine-room lodge, its Garden Cottages set apart across the estate with wood-burning fireplaces, copper bathtubs and terraces turned towards the mountain.

The Serengeti and the Migration

Four nights follow the wildebeest. Olakira moves twice a year to keep pace with the migration, standing on the Ndutu calving plains inside the Ngorongoro Conservation Area from December to March, when newborns draw lions, cheetahs and spotted hyenas onto open ground, and moving north into Serengeti National Park at the Mara River from June to October for the crossings. Game often starts within minutes of leaving camp. Tents stand on raised decking, and each has a mesh-walled section with wide views into which the bed can be rolled for a night under open sky.

Bwejuu Beach and the Reef

Five nights close the trip on Zanzibar's southeast coast, where Bwejuu Beach runs long and quiet behind coconut palms. The barrier reef breaks about a kilometre offshore, and when the tide drops the lagoon empties into rock pools of starfish, sea urchins and crabs that local guides walk you out to see. Swimming, kitesurfing, sailing and diving fill the high water. Breezes was built in Swahili-Omani plantation style, with makuti thatch over open-sided rooms, carved teak and four dining venues from the Salama dining room to a single table for two on the sand.

frequently asked questions

You can, and it is the reason most people pick this camp.

Each tent has a mesh walled section on its deck into which the bed rolls out, so there is netting and nothing else between you and the sky, and it rolls back under canvas if the weather turns.

The camp runs to nine or ten tents plus one or two family units, depending on which of its two sites it is standing on.

Bathrooms are en suite, with flushing loos and solar heated hot showers, there is battery charging and wifi, and the power comes off solar panels with a generator standing by. There is no pool and no air conditioning.

Nights are loud, because the camp stands among the animals rather than at a polite distance from them.

They are two different trips, and the camp moves between them.

From December to March it stands at Ndutu on the southern plains, where the wildebeest drop their calves inside a few weeks.

There are over 250,000 calves a year and eight to twelve thousand births a day in mid February, which is what draws lion, cheetah and hyena onto ground with no cover on it at all.

From June to October the camp is north near the Mara River, where the crossings begin in late July and continue into October, with the heaviest weeks in August and September. Nobody can promise one: a herd may wait on the bank for days, turn away, or go in where nobody can follow.

Calving is the steadier spectacle and crossings the more dramatic gamble. The camp is shut in April, May and November.

No qualification is needed.

The dive centre on the beach starts people from scratch, running entry level qualifications through to advanced and specialist ones, and it keeps groups to six divers a guide.

The reef here is a fringing one running some 65 kilometres down this coast and breaking about a kilometre offshore. The centre works a spread of named sites:

  • Shallow ground at ten to eighteen metres, perfect for beginners and children
  • Deeper reef from eighteen metres down to forty for qualified divers
  • A wall that drops away beyond thirty four metres for the experienced

Snorkelling and the guided walks over the exposed reef at low water ask nothing of you at all. The water is at its clearest in the cool months from June to October, and roughest in April and May.

Two windows stand out and they give different holidays.

The first runs July to October, our highest rated stretch on every leg: by then Olakira has moved up to the Mara River, the plains have dried out, and the sea off Bwejuu has settled into its clearest months.

The second is February, when the calving is on at Ndutu and the coast is bright and settled.

December and January fall between the two, with fewer vehicles, birds down from Europe and the heavy skies photographers prize, set against game that is harder to place and calving that has barely started.

March is wetter across Tanzania. The camp itself closes for April, May and November, so those three are out whatever the weather, and April and May are also the roughest weeks at sea, when many dive centres on this coast shut too.

Road for the short hop and light aircraft for the long ones.

The first night is thirty five minutes by road from Kilimanjaro International, on the North Dolly estate. The Serengeti is then reached by air, landing at Ndutu in the calving months or in the north near the Mara River later in the year.

Zanzibar is about two hours' flying from the Serengeti, with a stop at another airstrip on most days, and Bwejuu lies across on the ocean side of the island.

The bag limit is what trips people up: 15 kilograms each, hand baggage counted within it, and a soft sided bag rather than a suitcase. A private charter can replace any leg, normally a Cessna Grand Caravan.

Most of it can move.

The five beach nights are the easiest to shorten or to swap for another stretch of coast, and any spare nights are best added in the Serengeti, where four at the river is already a fair run at a crossing and a fifth improves it.

What is fixed is the calendar. The camp stands at Ndutu only from December to March and in the north only from June to October, and it shuts in April, May and November, so your dates decide where you sleep rather than the other way round.

One thing worth knowing when you compare camps: in the calving months the site stands on Ngorongoro Conservation Area land, not inside the national park itself. The single Arusha night exists because most flights from Europe land late.

Ed Charles photographing wildlife

Ed Charles, BBC Producer

Fitzroy are true specialists in accessing the wilderness. They know where to go and importantly, when to go there. Highly recommended.

Ed Charles

Bafta & Emmy award winning film producer of BBC’s Planet Earth 2 and A Perfect Planet

looking for inspiration?

Leopard face portrait with spotted coat and green eyes Zebras and wildebeest at waterhole with flamingos Local people walking on dusty road with vehicle approaching Seating area with flowers overlooking manicured grounds and trees, Rivertrees Country Inn, Arusha, Tanzania Open-air dining pavilion with wooden tables overlooking jungle vegetation at dusk, Rivertrees Country Inn, Arusha, Tanzania Couple dining outdoors with wine and plated food at evening, Rivertrees Country Inn, Arusha, Tanzania Luxury bedroom with four-poster canopy bed and tropical botanical décor, Rivertrees Country Inn, Arusha, Tanzania Outdoor dining area with illuminated umbrellas and trees at night, Rivertrees Country Inn, Arusha, Tanzania Luxury lounge interior with warm earth tones and arched doorways, Rivertrees Country Inn, Arusha, Tanzania Young elephant calf walking surrounded by adult elephants Luxury canvas tent with wooden deck lit up at dusk in savanna landscape, Tarangire Ndovu Tented Lodge, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania Guest observing elephants from lodge veranda in savanna woodland, Tarangire Ndovu Tented Lodge, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania Lioness resting with lion cub in dry grassland Elephant approaching observation deck with guest viewing from covered pavilion, Tarangire Ndovu Tented Lodge, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania Luxury safari tent interior with bed and lounge area overlooking grassland, Tarangire Ndovu Tented Lodge, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania Luxury safari lodge deck with thatched-roof structures overlooking savanna plains, Tarangire Ndovu Tented Lodge, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania Luxury lodge with illuminated pool at dusk surrounded by African savanna trees, Tarangire Ndovu Tented Lodge, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania Guides walking with guests across exposed riverbed with eroded clay banks, Tarangire Ndovu Tented Lodge, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania Safari vehicle encountering elephants on woodland game drive, Tarangire Ndovu Tented Lodge, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania Luxury safari tent interior with bed overlooking grassland at dusk, Tarangire Ndovu Tented Lodge, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania Two zebras rearing up on hind legs in dust Safari guide photographing zebra herd from vehicle Luxury twin bedroom with exposed beam ceiling and framed wildlife artwork, The Retreat at Ngorongoro, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania Covered wooden boardwalk connecting luxury bungalows with tropical gardens, The Retreat at Ngorongoro, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania Luxury dining room with fireplace and wooden beam ceiling at dusk, The Retreat at Ngorongoro, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania Luxury bathroom with double vanity and wicker chair overlooking garden, The Retreat at Ngorongoro, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania Luxury bedroom suite with fireplace and dual beds under exposed beam ceiling, The Retreat at Ngorongoro, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania Cheetah resting on sandy ground with raised tail Guest relaxing on outdoor sofa under acacia tree near safari tent, Serengeti Wilderness Camp, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania Guests warming by campfire at dusk in open savanna landscape, Serengeti Wilderness Camp, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania Safari camp dining area with canvas tent and outdoor seating in grassland, Serengeti Wilderness Camp, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania Luxury safari tent interior with bed and savanna views through windows, Serengeti Wilderness Camp, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania Luxury safari tent with canvas awning and wooden furnishings in grassland, Serengeti Wilderness Camp, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania Woman photographing elephants from safari vehicle on grassland, Serengeti Wilderness Camp, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania Hot air balloon basket with passengers waving during flight, Serengeti Wilderness Camp, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania Leopard walking through tall golden grass at sunset Swimming pool with loungers overlooking savanna landscape at midday, Tarangire Ndovu Tented Lodge, Tarangire National Park, Tanzania Thatched-roof lodge surrounded by indigenous gardens and woodland vegetation, The Retreat at Ngorongoro, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania Luxury bedroom with sheer canopy drapes overlooking garden terrace, Rivertrees Country Inn, Arusha, Tanzania Covered deck with dining table overlooking forested valley, The Retreat at Ngorongoro, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania Helicopter flying over rocky escarpment and savanna landscape, Mwiba Lodge, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

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Safari guide with guests by vehicle at dawn among palm trees, Ikuka Safari Camp, Ruaha National Park, Tanzania Woman relaxing on safari lodge deck at sunset overlooking savanna landscape, Ikuka Safari Camp, Ruaha National Park, Tanzania Safari vehicle and guides with tourists in savanna landscape, Ikuka Safari Camp, Ruaha National Park, Tanzania White arched pavilion with loungers and palm trees, Baraza Resort and Spa, Zanzibar & Pemba, Tanzania African elephant walking through dust cloud in savanna Lioness resting with lion cub in dry grassland Infinity pool overlooking savanna landscape at sunset, Ikuka Safari Camp, Ruaha National Park, Tanzania Wooden deck with seating area overlooking savanna landscape, Ikuka Safari Camp, Ruaha National Park, Tanzania Illuminated coastal lodge building at dusk with palm trees, Baraza Resort and Spa, Zanzibar & Pemba, Tanzania Covered wooden deck overlooking savanna at sunset, Ikuka Safari Camp, Ruaha National Park, Tanzania White Moroccan-style building with arched colonnade and palm trees, Baraza Resort and Spa, Zanzibar & Pemba, Tanzania Elephant with zebras and antelopes at waterhole Group of young lions resting together in savanna

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Whether by phone or in person, we work with you directly to shape something that is considered, personal, and expertly delivered.

Every journey starts with a conversation. We favour a direct, personal approach: understanding your vision before anything else.

Whether by phone or in person, we work with you directly to shape a journey that is both thoughtfully considered and expertly delivered.

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