best time to visit bwindi impenetrable forest

January falls in Bwindi's short dry season, when the steep trails firm up and trekking is more comfortable. Rainfall is low for a montane rainforest, with showers possible but rarely sustained.

Days are mild at around 22 degrees Celsius and mornings cool to about 12 degrees on the high slopes. The gorilla families are tracked every day of the year, so the gain here is footing rather than sightings. It is a touch quieter than the mid-year peak, though permits still warrant booking well ahead.

February is the most reliable month of the short dry season, with clearer skies and minimal mud on the trails. Of the early-year months this gives the most settled trekking conditions before the long rains arrive.

Temperatures hold steady, warm by day and cool at altitude overnight. Drier ground makes the climbs to the gorilla groups less demanding, which matters on Bwindi's sharp gradients. Demand is high for gorilla permits, so secure them several months in advance.

March opens the long rainy season and trekking conditions begin to deteriorate. Rainfall climbs sharply and the forest floor turns soft and slippery, making the steep sections harder going.

Treks still run, and the forest is lush and quiet with fewer visitors. Bird activity is high as breeding gets under way and migrants linger. But anyone wanting firm footing should look elsewhere; the mud and frequent downpours make this a demanding month underfoot.

April is among the wettest months of the year and the toughest for trekking. Heavy, frequent rain saturates the trails and the steep slopes become very slippery, with access roads harder to navigate after storms.

The trade-off is solitude and a forest at its greenest, and birding remains strong with migrants still present. For most travellers, though, the effort of the climbs in deep mud outweighs the quiet. This is a month to avoid if easier walking matters.

May sits at the tail of the long rains, with the forest floor still saturated and slippery. Rainfall eases towards the end of the month, but the ground stays soft and the steep tracks remain demanding.

It is nesting season for many forest birds, which makes it rewarding for birders willing to manage the wet. Visitor numbers are low and permit availability is good. Trekking itself, however, is still slow and effortful in the mud, so it suits the hardy rather than the cautious.

June marks the start of the long dry season and the best trekking conditions of the year. Rainfall drops sharply and the trails dry and firm, easing the climbs to the gorilla groups on Bwindi's steep terrain.

Days are pleasant and mornings cool at altitude. With the mud of the long rains gone, footing is more secure and visibility through the thinning understorey improves. This is peak season and permits sell out early, so book well in advance.

July is typically the driest month in Bwindi and prime for gorilla trekking. Only light showers are likely, and the firm ground makes the steep ascents to the gorilla families as manageable as they get.

Cool nights and mild days suit the physical effort of a trek. Forest visibility is good and the trails are at their most stable. Demand is at its highest across the year, so permits must be secured several months ahead.

August stays within the long dry season, with low rainfall and dependable trail conditions. The ground remains firm and the slopes more easily managed than in any wet month.

Conditions are similar to July, comfortable for hiking with cool mornings and mild afternoons. It remains a peak month, busy and in high demand. Book permits and lodges well ahead, as availability tightens through the dry season.

September is one of the best months to walk into Bwindi, and the wettest-sounding month that still walks well. Rain totals climb from August as the second rains gather, but the extra rain arrives late in the day.

Only about a seventh of September's rain falls between eight in the morning and two in the afternoon, which is the same share as August and exactly the hours you are on the trail.

Mornings are usually clear, the forest floor still holds, and the mid-year crowds have thinned, so permits and the better lodges are easier to secure. Expect a heavy shower later in the day and pack for it. The cloud is not all cost: dark gorilla fur holds its detail under flat light in a way it never does in hard equatorial sun.

October sits in the short rainy season, with steady rainfall and trails that are muddy again. The steep, dense terrain is slippery and the climbs to the gorilla groups more taxing, but treks run every day and the forest is at its richest.

Permits and lodges are easier to come by and the forest is quiet. It is also the light photographers want: heavy cloud works like a soft box over the canopy, and dark gorilla fur keeps detail that hard equatorial sun burns straight out. Come with proper boots and waterproofs and the month repays the effort.

November is one of the wettest months, with frequent and sometimes heavy rain leaving the trails deep in mud. Bwindi's steep slopes are at their most slippery and the trekking is demanding.

Migrant birds are arriving, and for a photographer this flat grey light is arguably the best of the year on gorillas, which are very hard to expose properly in bright sun. Visitor numbers are low and permits are easier to come by. For comfortable walking, though, this remains a difficult month, suited to travellers who accept the wet for the quiet.

December brings the start of the short dry season and a return to firmer trekking conditions. The short rains ease, and although showers are still possible the trails begin to dry and firm up.

Days are mild and nights cool on the high slopes. Footing improves markedly on the steep climbs to the gorilla families compared with the preceding wet months. Demand rises around the holidays, so book permits early to secure the dates you want.