rwanda
nyungwe’s chimps to the volcanoes gorillas
Eight nights across Rwanda, from Nyungwe's rainforest and Lake Kivu to the gorilla trailheads of the Virunga volcanoes.
- Private Safari
- From $10,930 pp
- 2 guests
- 8 nights
The route begins in Kigali, Rwanda’s hill-spread capital, then climbs to Volcanoes National Park for the mountain gorillas of the Virunga forests. It crosses into Kenya through Nairobi before three conservancies in turn: Mara North on the Mara River, Namunyak in the Mathews Range and Ol Malo on a Laikipia escarpment. It finishes on the coast at Kilifi Creek.
You travel by road and light aircraft, with private guiding through the conservancies and time to trek, drive, walk and ride at your own pace. The stays run from a sole-use villa in Kigali and a forest lodge below the volcanoes to exclusive-use camps and a private house above the Indian Ocean.
Rwanda's capital spreads across a series of ridges, widely regarded as the cleanest city in Africa and a calm place to arrive. Give it a day for the Kigali Genocide Memorial at Gisozi, the textile stalls of Kimironko Market and the painters of the Inema Arts Center. Your base is a four-bedroom family home on Rebero hill in Kicukiro, taken on sole use with a private chef and butler, its veranda and pool looking out across the folded country beyond.
From Kigali you move north to the Virunga volcanoes, where a permit grants one hour with a habituated mountain gorilla family, eight visitors per gorilla family each day. Treks assemble at Kinigi Park Headquarters by 7am and can last from two to seven hours across farmed foothills and forest; golden monkeys and around 200 bird species share the park. Between walks, the lodge sits among eucalyptus at the foot of the volcanoes, its free-standing suites raised among the trees with the peaks filling the view.
A night in Nairobi's Karen suburb breaks the move into Kenya. The Giraffe Centre and the David Sheldrick elephant orphanage lie fifteen minutes away, the Karen Blixen Museum a few minutes' drive, and Nairobi National Park is close enough for a morning game drive among lion, black rhino, zebra and giraffe. The house is a privately owned Cape Dutch guesthouse of seven rooms, its gardens falling to a quiet stream under mature shade trees.
In Mara North Conservancy the days run to game drives with a private vehicle and a two-person guide-and-tracker team, following the day's light and the movement of animals across savannah and riverine forest. Elephant, buffalo, lion and leopard range the conservancy, and resident hippos wallow in the pools below camp. Three timber-and-canvas rooms above a bend of the Mara River are taken whole by up to six guests, so the river frontage and the guides are yours alone.
Namunyak covers around 850,000 acres of plains, riverine corridors and rocky slopes in Samburu County, a community conservancy where activities face few restrictions. Days can hold unrestricted game drives, night drives, walking safaris, horseback rides on bush ponies and camel treks into the Mathews Range. Eight canvas suites stand on stilts in a forest glade at the foot of Mount Uarges, with elephants, buffalo and giraffe moving across the floor beneath the decks and a waterhole below the pool.
On a Laikipia escarpment above the Ewaso Ng'iro, the days go on horseback, on camels and on foot with armed Samburu guides, drawing closer to Grevy's zebra and reticulated giraffe than a vehicle allows. Night drives and off-road tracking are permitted here on private land, and a waterhole and salt lick sit directly beneath the cliff, where leopards visit after dark. The lodge is a family ranch, hand-built in local stone above the river and now run by a third generation.
The trip finishes on the coast, on a clifftop above Kilifi Creek where the Goshi River meets the Indian Ocean. The sheltered, tidal channel suits sailing, kayaking and paddleboarding, the reef off the house holds tropical fish reached with mask and fins, and the estate's own boat goes out into deeper water. Six suites take twelve guests on exclusive use, with a private chef, a 25-metre infinity pool above the rock pools and gardens running to the cliff edge.
The odds are strongly in your favour, though no wild animal can be promised.
No official rate is published, but we put success at better than 95 per cent, and that rests on a routine: each habituated family is picked up at its night nests before dawn and kept in sight until you arrive.
The effort is harder to predict. Reaching your family can take half an hour or four hours and more, climbing through bamboo, nettles and mud at somewhere between 2,500 and 4,000 metres, where thin air makes any slope feel steeper.
Twelve families are habituated here, and the 7am gathering at Kinigi shares them out with fitness in mind, so be honest about what you want to walk. Porters can be taken on at the trailhead for the bag and a steadying arm.
Three nights at the foot of the volcanoes leave room for a second trek, or a rest day after the first.
It means there are no other guests.
Three of the stays on this route are taken whole:
The house, the staff and the guides are yours alone, you set the timetable, and the chef cooks to your tastes. That holds whether you are two or ten, which is why this route works well for a family or for friends travelling together, and we adjust the other stays to the size of your party.
Two limits to plan around: the minimum age for gorilla tracking is 15, and Sarara Treehouses, while taking children of any age, suits six and over. A whole house takes one booking at a time, so its dates go early. Tell us yours as soon as you can.
By road and light aircraft, and mostly by air once you reach Kenya.
Volcanoes National Park is two and a half to three hours by road from Kigali. Both countries' national airlines fly between Kigali and Nairobi, which is why the route pauses for a night in Karen.
Inside Kenya the conservancies are linked by light aircraft, typically a Cessna Caravan, with 15 kilograms of luggage each in soft bags, hand luggage included, and flights that may call at other airstrips on the way. Scheduled services do not reach everywhere.
Sarara, for instance, is served by private charter to the Namunyak airstrip, or by a scheduled flight to Kalama and about an hour and a half by road, and Ol Malo arranges aircraft direct to the ranch. For legs like those we can charter, typically a Cessna Caravan or a Pilatus PC-12.
We confirm every flight when we plan your trip, and send the current visa rules for both countries at the same time.
Yes, and it is an easy addition.
Sarara Treehouses is about 45 minutes' drive from Reteti, which lies inside the same Namunyak conservancy. Reteti opened in August 2016 to rescue orphaned and abandoned elephant calves from across northern Kenya, between ten and fifteen in a typical year, and to return them to the wild instead of keeping them.
It is owned by the local community, and its keepers are all Samburu, drawn from Namunyak itself. They feed the calves by bottle every three hours and walk them out into the bush each day.
A visit is not written into the sample days, so ask us to add it when we plan your three nights. It sits well beside the elephants you meet on Sarara's own ground, where wild herds move beneath the treehouse decks and come to the waterhole below the pool.
Five months carry our top rating from the volcanoes all the way to Kilifi: July and August first, then September, January and February.
Each of them gives firm gorilla trails, good game viewing in the Mara and the north, and calm, clear water on the coast.
June and October are in-between months, good in parts of the route and showery in others, and December is mixed inland but sunny at Kilifi.
The long rains of April and May are the one stretch we would talk you out of, mud inland and a dulled sea at Kilifi, and March is the hardest month of all on the volcanoes. November is awkward for a practical reason as well as the short rains: Sarara Treehouses closes for the month.
The wetter months still have advantages, among them easier gorilla permits, lower prices, green country with newborn animals, and soft light for photographs.
Yes. Seventeen nights is the full version, and most of it can flex.
The easiest saving is in the north. Sarara and Ol Malo both offer riding, walking and camels with Samburu guides, one in forested mountains and the other on open ranchland, so choosing between them saves three nights without losing a whole kind of experience. The coast can shrink, grow or move to another stretch of the Kenyan shore.
The fixed points are fewer but firm. Only eight permits exist for each gorilla family each day, so those are booked before anything else.
Kimya Kimya and Sirai Beach each take a single party, so their dates decide the order of what surrounds them. Sarara Treehouses is shut for the whole of November.
Tell us how long you have and what matters most, and we will shape the route to fit.
Ed Charles, BBC Producer
Fitzroy are true specialists in accessing the wilderness. They know where to go and importantly, when to go there. Highly recommended.
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rated five stars by our clients
our approach
Every journey starts with a conversation. We take the time to understand your vision before we start planning.
Whether by phone or in person, we work with you directly to shape something that is considered, personal, and expertly delivered.
Every journey starts with a conversation. We favour a direct, personal approach: understanding your vision before anything else.
Whether by phone or in person, we work with you directly to shape a journey that is both thoughtfully considered and expertly delivered.
Get in touch to start planning yours.