The journey to Mpala Jena is made by boat, upstream on the Zambezi to a private concession roughly 16 kilometres inside Zambezi National Park, above Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Hippos surface alongside the boat and fish eagles call overhead. Then the camp’s white-sand riverbank comes into view, five suites set along a stretch shaded by sausage and jackalberry trees, facing a broad, tree-lined channel of the upper Zambezi.
Hippos surface alongside the boat and fish eagles call overhead
Elephants cross behind camp and crocodiles work the shallows below the suites. The river is rarely quiet, and much of life here follows what happens on the water rather than any fixed schedule. The placement of the pool, the timing of meals, all of it takes its cue from the current and from whatever the day happens to bring down it.
There is no town noise and no passing traffic at Mpala Jena, and 16 kilometres inside a national park changes what a stay feels like. Yet Victoria Falls town lies only a short game drive or boat run away, and a guided visit to the Falls is included for anyone staying two nights or more, the great spray and thunder of it never far from the quiet of camp.
There is no town noise and no passing traffic at Mpala Jena
Most accommodation near the Falls is hotel-based, with game drives offered as an add-on. Mpala Jena works the other way round, a small camp set inside the park itself, with the Falls as a short excursion rather than the reason for the trip. Buffalo and elephant gather along this stretch of the Zambezi in greater numbers between June and October, drawn to the water as the surrounding bush dries out.
Mpala Jena opened in 2019, rebuilt on the site of the former Pioneers Camp. The suites are stone and canvas beneath high canopy ceilings, raised on wooden decks and joined by walkways. The palette is Moroccan-influenced, all pale blues, creams and sand tones that echo the river outside. The white decorative details, the beaded mirrors and bleached natural objects, nod to the white impala after which the concession takes its name. Down at the bar there is sand underfoot and swings in place of stools, and hammocks hang between the trees nearby.
Each suite opens onto a private deck facing the water, with an indoor bathroom and a separate outdoor tub and shower reached across the decking. Two of the five are two-bedroom family suites, a central lounge connecting the bedrooms. Further upstream, five kilometres on, sit two three-bedroom villas, each with its own pool, guide and vehicle. The camp runs entirely on solar power, and recycled hardwoods and locally sourced thatch and canvas went into every part of its construction, so that the place sits lightly on its stretch of riverbank.
Hippos grunt through the night, elephants move through the trees near the suites
Days move between land and water. Game drives in open Land Cruisers and guided walks explore the concession and the wider park, where lion, kudu, eland, giraffe, zebra and sable antelope are all recorded. Boat cruises and a traditional wooden dhow follow the river at sunrise and sunset, and the fishing is catch-and-release, tiger fish the main draw between June and December. For those who want the gorge and the spray from above, helicopter flights over the Falls can be arranged.
Meals are served wherever suits the day, from breakfast under a tree to dinner at private tables by the river, and the kitchen trains its chefs from communities near the park. Hippos grunt through the night, elephants move through the trees near the suites, and the outdoor tub sits within earshot of the water throughout. With only five suites strung along the bank, the space between one and the next is considerable, and the river feels, for a few days, entirely your own.
accommodation
Tented suites and private villas
Five tented suites, two configured as two-bedroom family suites with a central lounge. Each is stone and canvas under a high canopy ceiling, on a raised deck facing the Zambezi, with an indoor bathroom and separate outdoor tub and shower. Two three-bedroom villas sit five kilometres upstream, each with its own pool, guide and vehicle.
activities
On the Zambezi, in Zambezi National Park
Game drives in open Land Cruisers and guided walking safaris cover the private concession and wider Zambezi National Park. Boat cruises and a wooden dhow run the Zambezi at sunrise and sunset, with catch-and-release tiger fishing from June to December. A guided Victoria Falls visit is included for stays of two nights or more, and helicopter flights can be arranged.
conservation
With Great Plains Conservation
Mpala Jena helped establish the Zambezi Parks Support Foundation in 2023, working with Zimbabwe's national parks authority on anti-poaching and wildlife management. The camp runs entirely on solar power and was built using recycled hardwoods and locally sourced thatch and canvas. Kitchen chefs are trained from communities near the park.
Get in touch and let’s start the conversation. An initial consultation helps us understand what you’re looking for, whether that’s specific experiences, luxury touches, or marking a special occasion, and from there we’ll guide you through what’s possible so you can decide if we’re the right fit.
You fly into Victoria Falls International Airport, which takes direct scheduled flights from Johannesburg and other regional hubs. From there it is a short transfer into Zambezi National Park, where the camp sits on a slow bend of the Zambezi upstream of the falls, and you are met on arrival and brought in.
The camp is small, so we time the transfer to your flight and let the team know when to expect you. If your trip pairs Mpala Jena with a fly-in bush camp elsewhere in the country, those legs go by light aircraft with a soft-bag limit of around 20kg per person, which we confirm before you pack. Those flights can also run as a private charter, typically a Cessna Caravan or Pilatus PC-12, if you would rather fly to your own timings.
The camp lies on the Zambezi in Zambezi National Park, which carries a malaria risk, so it is not malaria-free. The risk is seasonal, lowest in the cooler dry months from June to September and higher through the wet green season from November to April.
We suggest checking the current advice with a travel clinic or your doctor before you travel, taking any antimalarials they recommend, and using repellent and covering up once the sun goes down.
Winter mornings from June to August are cool and the early river cruises and drives can be chilly, so pack a warm layer for dawn and dusk. Days are pleasant and warm then, turning hot from September, with October the peak of the heat in the valley.
Light, neutral-coloured clothing, a hat, sunglasses and good sunscreen cover most of the year, with a light rain jacket useful in the green months from November to March. Bring a swimming costume for the plunge pool at your suite.
The camp is close enough for a morning visit to the falls, and we can build a guided tour into your stay. How much water is coming over depends on the season: the river is fullest and most dramatic from around February to July, while the lower water from August to December reveals more of the rock face and opens up experiences like Devil's Pool.
Most of your time, though, is spent on the river and the floodplain around camp, with boat cruises, fishing and game drives in the national park. We will fit a falls visit around the rest of your days rather than let it take one over.
Children aged six and over are welcome, and children under sixteen share a suite with an adult. The two private villas give families more room and their own space, with personalised service throughout.
Tell us the ages of your children when you enquire and we will make sure the activities we plan suit them, and let you know honestly whether the camp is the right fit for your family.
There is wifi at camp, but it is intermittent given the remote riverside setting, so it is best thought of as enough to check in occasionally rather than to work or stream. Mobile signal is patchy this far up the river.
For most guests that is part of the appeal, a few quiet days away from the screen. If you need to stay reachable while you are there, let us know before you travel and we will tell you honestly what to expect on your dates.
rated five stars by our clients
our approach
Every journey starts with a conversation. We take the time to understand your vision before we start planning.
Whether by phone or in person, we work with you directly to shape something that is considered, personal, and expertly delivered.
